Come on out - the game is on, the smoker’s lit, the beer’s cold, and everyone’s having a great time out back. It’s one big backyard BBQ filled with your favorite people and food.
That’s the experience that Mark Renn wants to cultivate at Pioneer Smokehouse just on the edge of historic Downtown Brenham, Texas. And he’s nailed it. Walk in, grab a beer or a soda, and head to the counter to order. There’s more seating outside at the picnic tables, where you can smell the smoke of Post Oak and Pecan wood billowing out of the huge pit. In the winter, fire pits will burn, and in the summer kick back and relax under the big trees.
When Mark was young, he loved to cook, and as he grew into adulthood he began smoking meats. He was a youth pastor for about 25 years where he put his love of smoking meat to good use for church and community events. He moved to Texas and began making beer can art as a hobby, but eventually saw that he wanted a place to sell the art and create a community.
Now, he not only sells the art at the restaurant, but also at places like the Dr. Pepper Museum in Waco, Texas; he also has a thriving BBQ restaurant, and he holds a church service every Sunday evening in the restaurant. Cultivating the community dream he’s been working towards.
The building was constructed in 1860 as the Magnolia Oil Storage facility for the railroad, and he’s tried to preserve as much of the integrity of the original building as possible. It was stunning to walk in and see the original brick and hear how they’ve made accommodations to meet the requirements of permitting, while maintaining the character of the landmark.
Giving back to people is the best part of the business for Mark; he strives to keep BBQ affordable for families in a time when the popularity of Texas BBQ has prices on the rise. Good food, good prices, and good portions are his goal.
To start our tasting, Mark brought out a half order of Hobo Nachos. The name is a play on
train hobos of the past, as the restaurant sits directly next to the tracks. The half portion is huge; I can’t imagine what the full portion is like. Between the smokey brisket, tender pinto beans, and homemade queso, you would think this would be a heavy flavor. However, they're lightened up with fresh pico, salsa, sour cream, and extra cilantro. I love a good, wide-spread platter of nachos, where all of the chips get toppings!
Moving on to the buffalo chicken stuffed potato. This potato was loaded with tender smoked chicken and shredded cheddar cheese; then covered with buffalo sauce, homemade ranch, and a sprinkling of onions; dripping with deliciousness. The chicken was perfectly seasoned, and I liked that it wasn’t a fried chicken tender or even shredded breast, it was meaty smoked chunks.
On the four meat platter, I got to experience the smoked chicken on its own; tender and perfectly juicy. I shy away from chicken a lot of times because I know how it can be, too chewy, too dry, too bland. Not Pioneer’s. This platter also came loaded with smoked sausage, pulled pork, and sliced brisket. I know everyone likes to hear about the brisket, and it was fantastic, as was the pulled pork. The brisket had a nice bark and a beautiful smoke ring, and it fell apart as I picked it up and juices dripped onto the plate. The pulled pork was succulent. After tasting it by itself, I had to put a scoop on a slice of bread with some of their homemade sauce, which made a phenomenal sandwich. The sausage had enough fat so it wasn’t dry, but it wasn’t greasy; dipped in their house-made mustard sauce it was outstanding.
The Crazy Train sandwich was a show-stopper. A grilled bun, covered with pulled pork, topped with grilled jalapenos and sweet onions, and drizzled with homemade ranch. The real MVP of this sandwich was the layer of house-crafted jalapeno jelly below the pork. The sweet heat of the jelly was the perfect pop of flavor to pair against the savory flavors above it.
Y’all know my true life’s purpose is to find the best Mac and Cheese in the world and I take that very seriously. So when Mark asked if I wanted to try the Loaded Mac and Cheese, what was I supposed to do? Of course, I said Hell yeah! A pan full of corkscrew pasta coated with a queso cheese sauce, chopped brisket piled on top, and a dollop of sour cream. Warm, rich, and hearty, it was perfection.
Get out and take the backroads on over to Pioneer Smokehouse in Downtown Brenham, Texas. Tell Mark and the crew I said hi, and let me know what you liked best!
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309 S. Park St. Brenham, TX 77833
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