When Jesse Ocana stepped into the corner space in Bryan, Texas, he knew it would become a taco shop, Jesse’s Taqueria & Bakery.
Jesse’s been around the restaurant business for a long time. His dad was a hotel chef, in his hometown, McAllen, Texas. When Jesse grew up, he also started in the restaurant business, working for El Chico, for many years as the General Manager. He was transferred from location to location all across the Southeast of the United States. After his last transfer, Bryan, Texas, he told the company that he wouldn’t move again, his daughter was of age to start school, and he was happy to settle down with his family in Bryan.
He worked for another restaurant group for 20 years, when he decided to branch out on his own. Then in 2012, he walked into what would become his own taco shop. Jesse’s dad had experience with table service dining at the hotel, but had always told Jesse that a taco shop, not a full service restaurant, was the way to go. At the time, this was unheard of in this area, but Jesse trusted him. He and his dad spent hours together developing and testing the Tex-Mex recipes, and they’re still the same today.
In his youth, Jesse got in to some trouble; what he calls his “dark past’. As we sat and he told me about those days, chills ran down my spine. Not because of his actions that led him to prison, but because of the actions that led him to the man he is today. He worked closely with the prison’s Chaplain and grew closer to his faith, he earned three bachelor's degrees, and helped countless individuals through their struggles. He truly went in as one person, and came out anew.
He carries the spirit of love, compassion and faith with him every day, and you can feel it when you walk into his restaurant. With an enthusiastic “How are you my friend”, a handshake and a pat on the back, Jesse greets most of his customers; that is when he’s not helping his staff during busy times.
He and his wife Karen, have seen it all. They started with just 4 people in the shop, Jesse, Liz, his General Manager that’s been with him since day one, one cook, and one person making tortillas. “For the first 14 months or so it was really tough, no one knew [they] were there.” So Karen had to keep her full-time job for a while, but Jesse always told them, that if they only made just enough to support the four of them in the shop, that’s all they needed. He didn’t need to be greedy.
Now they're thriving. The shop is always bustling; the few tables are almost always filled with guests, on game days the line often stretches around the building, and organizations love to work with him. The hospitality that he offers his guests shows his true spirit.
This morning I tried a selection of their newest dishes. This is one of my and my husband's favorite spots in town, and I’ve already had many of his most popular tacos, so I was super excited to get the opportunity to try items that I hadn’t before.
The pollo en creama was tender, grilled white meat chicken pieces, dressed in a cream and
tomato based sauce. The sauce was smooth with a mild spice and a bit of tang from the tomato. Served with their fluffy yellow rice, refried beans, and pico.
The carnitas were tender and juicy, perfect to wrap up in one of their warm, freshly made tortillas. The meat was slightly spiced with a hint of citrus to balance the rich pork flavors. It was also served with rice and refried beans.
My favorite dish of the day was the birria tacos. Two freshly made corn tortillas, dipped in the birria consomme, then grilled, filled with shredded birria and cheese. The tortillas were folded and pressed on the grill to crisp up, then dipped in the consomme again before serving. They were served with a bowl of thick consomme on the side for extra dipping; along with cilantro and onion to dress them up. The birria had deep, bold flavors from the chilis and the slow simmering of the beef with other spices. To the side, was a bowl of the best charro beans that I’ve had in a long time, with smooth hints of onion, peppers, and tomato all perfectly balanced.
If you’re out looking for a Tex-Mex breakfast or lunch, make sure you find your way down the backroads to Jesse’s Taqueria, in Bryan, Texas. Tell Jesse and the crew that I said hi, and grab a few extra tacos for later. You’ll be glad you did!
3310 A East 29th Street, Bryan, Texas 77802
As always, make sure you check the restaurant’s hours, before making the drive.
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